Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Portage & Main => Topic started by: Sloppy_Snood on March 24, 2014, 05:18:25 PM
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As suggested by some others of this forum, I am going to try to post the process of installation of my Portage & Main Ultimizer BL 34-44 owb for my 5,900 sq. ft. home (load, loss, specs., layout design will be posted in the future ;) ).
This thread will be an evolutionary thread where I continually post pictures, questions, information my dealer is telling me, progress reports, etc. Feel free to post any questions or comments you like. Here I go....
March 21, 2014:
Next door neighbor brought over his Allmand backhoe and dug my main trench some 80 feet long for a "work trade" of me grinding out some stumps for him in May 2014. "Free." All trenching is 36" minimum with 60" depth on both ends of the trench. This will allow for "bending the Logstor anaconda" and access with tools near the entrance to the house. Logstor Dual Pex-Flex is to be utilized for the underground piping but 1" versus 1 1/4" dual pex pipes is still being debated with my dealer (who is helping me with the installation design but I am performing the actual labor myself). Enough talk.... pictures tell so much more, right? :thumbup:
No pictures of the Allmand backhoe in action but the resulting trench came out nicely.
Trench 56 inches right at the outer basement wall (prior to core drilling)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Trench_5_22MAR14.jpg)
Hand digging with the old shovel near the house. No backhoe accidents occurred. 8)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Trench_1_22MAR14.jpg)
Better living through hydraulics... bottom of the ditch is quite level.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Trench_6_22MAR14.jpg)
Tulip poplar tree, stump and roots didn't phase the backhoe bucket.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Trench_2_22MAR14.jpg)
A look down the trench toward the end-of-the-owb-line.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Trench_3_22MAR14.jpg)
End of the trench run (looking back toward my house) where concrete pad will be poured for the BL 34-44. Water in the bottom of the trench is from a natural spring. A drain tile will be installed to keep it drained.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Trench_4_22MAR14.jpg)
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March 24, 2014: Slopster in full manual labor mode.
Stripping away the drywall of a 6-inch stud wall in the basement.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Basement_Wall_1_22MAR14.jpg)
A little demolition of 2" x 4"s and 2" x 6"s in the wall. I notched the studs in order to install a temporary "shelf" to lay the heavy core drill on. This helped a great deal in guiding the drill and reducing operator fatigue. Used some copper tie wire to hold the electrical wire out of the way of the giant core drilling bit.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Basement_Wall_3_22MAR14.jpg)
Husqvarna Core Drill with 6-inch Diameter 10-inch long core drilling bit (the hand/arm mangler). Busted my hands up nicely when the drill caught the 1/2" rebar in the 10-inch thick poured concrete wall. Chalk up $172 for the drill rental. Don't let the drill distract you from my pretty big toe though... :P
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Basement_Wall_2_22MAR14.jpg)
Back outdoors, the 10-inch concrete core from the wall stands in the ditch next to the 6-inch hole. The Logstor pipe will enter my home here at 40 inches below final earth grade.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Basement_Wall_5_22MAR14.jpg)
I "practice fit" the LinkSeal ($33) for the Logstor pipe within the 6-inch hole for chits and giggles. A dry run fit....
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Basement_Wall_4_22MAR14.jpg)
That's it for today.... have to run to Ohio this week and purchase the mega $$$ Logstor Dual PEX-Flex insulated underground piping and put it in the trench. :thumbup:
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Really nice job on the project so far, the first bend outside of the foundation looks a bit tight for Logstor, What about power or is that coming from someplace else?
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Really nice job on the project so far, the first bend outside of the foundation looks a bit tight for Logstor, What about power or is that coming from someplace else?
Thanks slimjim. :thumbup: I have to core drill another 2" hole through the wall in order to feed underground electrical conduit through. Planning on running 3 or 4 pairs of wire out to the furnace through the conduit (pulling extra wire through the conduit in case of any future need for electrical expansion at the furnace itself. The conduit and wires will be buried 6 inches over the top of the buried Logstor.
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Awesome, would there be any use in bringing a separate water line out there for some future use while you are there?
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Awesome, would there be any use in bringing a separate water line out there for some future use while you are there?
Now you have me thinking.... but prolly not. There are external water spigots all sides of my home only some 50 feet (max) away. We are on well water (extremely hard water) too so I'm not sure I would want to put all those minerals in the jacket. Thoughts?
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no, a completely separate line
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no, a completely separate line
Understood. Just not sure what I would use it for slimjim.
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just an option, does not sound like it is needed
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no, a completely separate line
so the other half can water the future flower bed :thumbup:
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Sloppy_Snood, have you any word when you will be receiving your BL-3444?
oaky
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Sloppy_Snood, have you any word when you will be receiving your BL-3444? oaky
Yes. MY P&M dealer Brian Cooper will be delivering it this weekend or next. I have intentionally delayed him until my Logstor, electrical conduit & wire, and concrete boiler pad are done. The furnace itself is at Brian's waiting for me to tell him to bring it. :)
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March 28, 2014: My buddy John (also installing a BL 34-44) and I managed to travel to Greenville, Ohio today in order to purchase 105 feet of Logstor Dual PEX-Flex piping (mine) and another 65 feet piece for his installation.
We rolled my 105 feet into the garage for safe keeping and installation tomorrow (hopefully). It might not look like $1354.50 but I assure you it is. Still not sure about burying that much money in dirt and pea gravel though.... :-\ :'( :P :P
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_105feetcoil_4_28MAR14.jpg)
Definitely Logstor brand (unless the Chinese have copied that too :o )
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_105feetcoil_1_28MAR14.jpg)
Somebody at Classic Comfort in Ohio went "choppity-chop-chop!"
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_105feetcoil_3_28MAR14.jpg)
Logstor endcaps were free of charge and will be placed over the exposed dual PEX piping ends.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_105feetcoil_2_28MAR14.jpg)
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Nice Pipe Sloppy, did you get it in the ground yet? pictures?
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Nice Pipe Sloppy, did you get it in the ground yet? pictures?
March 30, 2014:
Saturday, March 29th was rained out for line installation so I began electrical core drill hole work and Logstor piping installation on Sunday, March 30th.
As slimjim noted earlier in this blog thread, I need to have electrical out to the new BL 34-44 OWB so core drilling another hole (3 inches this time) with a wall mounted Hilti DD250-E core drill made for easy drilling.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_Ditch_Install_1_30MAR14.jpg)
The big, bad boy Hilti core drill worked like a champ and cut out a nice concrete trophy to remember the fun involved in OWB installation. :P
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_Ditch_Install_5_30MAR14.jpg)
The 8-inch and 3 1/2-inch diamond core bits were not used (I rented a 3" and 6" core drill bit from SunBelt Rentals at a Lowes near me).
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_Ditch_Install_6_30MAR14.jpg)
A 3" diameter concrete core with 10 inches overall length was removed from the drill. The 3-inch hole will house the 1-inch electrical conduit.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_Ditch_Install_4_30MAR14.jpg)
The Logstor 1-inch Dual PEX-Flex piping was rolled out in the ditch starting with inserting the end nearest the house into the LinkSeal sized for a 6-inch diameter core-drilled hole. The Link Seal performs an excellent job keeping the Logstor pipe's outer casing away from the "sharp" edge of the core drilled hole. This is especially important for my installation since I am making a 90 degree turn in order to route the piping through the 6-inch hole.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_Ditch_Install_3_30MAR14.jpg)
Another picture to show the bend radius itself and the value of using a Link Seal in these types of installs.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_Ditch_Install_2_30MAR14.jpg)
1-inch Dual PEX- Flex Logstor Piping Entering into my home in the 6-inch hole. The outer casing and polyurethane foam insulation will be removed from this end of the pipe. The Pex will be exposed and allow for addition of fittings. An additional Link Seal will be added to the inside of the 6-inch hole in order to protect the Logstor's outer casing.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_Ditch_Install_8_30MAR14.jpg)
1-inch Schedule 40 Underground Electrical Conduit for my 12/2 electrical wire. The wire is rated for underground use and does not require conduit but I used it anyway for added electrical line protection. 8)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Logstor_Ditch_Install_7_30MAR14.jpg)
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I'm new to the site but plan on buying the Bl 34-44, very nice job posting your progress
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Very nice, 12-2 or 12-3 direct burial wire? I will usually try to get the customer to drop that extra conductor into the conduit for a dedicated 12 gauge circuit, possible outlets at the boiler on a separate breaker, How do you like that seal, please post the name of it again!
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Very nice, 12-2 or 12-3 direct burial wire? I will usually try to get the customer to drop that extra conductor into the conduit for a dedicated 12 gauge circuit, possible outlets at the boiler on a separate breaker, How do you like that seal, please post the name of it again!
I intend on pulling wire for three two circuits:
1. one run of underground-rated 12/2 w/grnd for the 100+ feet run for the boiler’s aqua stat and blower;
2. one run of underground-rated 12/2 w/grnd for the 100+ feet run for the a backup for the boiler electronics
3. one run of underground-rated 12/3 w/grnd OR 10/3 w/grnd for enough power to supply a MIG or TIG welder with power (didn't happen)
All three runs will be pulled through 1-inch PVC Scehdule 40 underground (gray) conduit. 8) That should cover my needs and allow for power adjacent to the BL 34-44 if welding were ever needed (let's hope not ;) )
The seal again....lots of guys asking about that one via PM and e-mail (that's fine too guys, thank you; I always reply to e-mails and PMs).
The product is called a Link Seal. It is similar to a bicycle chain in design style. A Link Seal is wrapped around the pipe and carefully slid back into the recess of a core drilled hole housing said pipe. Link Seals are "size specific" but due to design, variation in pipe o.d.'s is no problem. The bolt heads squeeze an EDPM rubber "link" until it bulges outward to fill the void between the pipe and the wall of the hole itself. Simple ratchet with hex head socket used to tighten. Instructions tell you to tighten each bolt a couple of turns then move clockwise around the Link Seal until all have been tightened and the rubber has sealed the hole (look "through the seal with a light on the other side of the hole and look for any light that may be able to be seem). If no light is visible, you are pretty much one. This product DOES NOT require strong man torqueing for 100% waterproof sealing. Company says it should last 15-30 years.... I believe them.
LINK: Link Seal Modular Seals (Click Here) (http://www.linkseal.com/htmlPages/base_ls.htm)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Basement_Wall_4_22MAR14.jpg)
I may have stated this somewhere else but I will try to break down the Link Seals I used and cost:
- Two $33 Modular Links Seals (each) for both the interior and exterior of the 6" core drilled hole housing Logstor 1" Dual PEX-Flex piping with o.d. of 4.3"
- Two $16 Modular Links Seals (each) for both the interior and exterior of the 3" core drilled hole housing 1" Lowes Schedule 40 conduit with an actual o.d. of 1 5/16" inches
The Link Seals are fantastic. I direct sprayed my outer seal with a garden hose from 12 inches away for 5 minutes and absolutely no water on the other side of the seal. 8) Like Logstor, it is "expensive" for just a seal but I would wager that I won't be fiddling with the seals in the future either. For me, it is "worth it." :thumbup:
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How's the install coming along sloppy!? Keep posting pictures ;D
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How's the install coming along sloppy!? Keep posting pictures ;D
April 3, 2014: Some progress but rain delay,,, :(
Nine (9) tons of flume sand arrived yesterday on my driveway. Managed to get about half of the Logstor buried in the flume sand but heavy rains forced me to quit around 9PM. Logstor pipe is resting on heavy clay with flume sand hand tamped to the sides of the pipe. Another 6-inches of flume sand over the top of the pipe and gently hand-tamped in the rain. Highly recommend flume sand for back filling as it packs very well. Flume sand will serve as the main support under the 90° bend in my Logstor piping as it turns up under the BL-34-44 concrete pad's to the furnace.
David Kruckeberg at Classic Comfort in Greenville, Ohio stressed several times that the bend in the Logstor piping that will connect to the furnace's water ports MUST have proper backfill support at this particular point. Back fill material must not "fall away" (i.e. settle) and compromise piping support. (If backfill material were to fall away, the Logstor piping would "pull" on the water jacket's connections and stress them.... possibly to the point where the connection could severe or in a severe case, crack the weld for the water port on the jacket itself! :o Don't do that!)
Note: For those that may not know.... "flume sand" is basically very fine limestone powder and "sand" from limesone pulverization at the stone quarry and looks like the following picture (golf ball in flume sand for size reference):
(https://www.landscapemulch.com/images/products/flumesand.jpg)
Flinging mud everywhere and tracking the heck out of my hill where the furnace will be set.
(picture placeholder)
Mother Nature's rain forced me to move inside so I added antoher Link Seal to the inside of the 6-inch core drilled hole through the 10-inch poured concrete wall. The Logstor "snugged up" nicely and the seal "countersunk" itself where the 6mm Hex bolt heads were flush with the face of the wall.
(picture placeholder)
Additional pictures and commments are forthcoming this evening of Thursday April 3rd. :thumbup: :photo:
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Your install is very informative to those of us newbies what kind of setup do you have inside maybe some nice pictures that when you get to it :post:
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Your install is very informative to those of us newbies what kind of setup do you have inside maybe some nice pictures that when you get to it :post:
...now wait a minute.... I am an OWB nOObie! ;) ...but Thank You very much for your kind words. Much appreciated. :)
Once the exterior portion is complete, then I will start posting the interior set up (predominantly designed by my P&M dealer Brian Cooper but I am a particular individual when it comes to certain system design, components, etc.). :thumbup:
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I am like you, do it once, do it right! It may cost more to have the good stuff but well worth it IMO :thumbup:
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Hope you are having good progress with your install!
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April 5, 2014: Delivery of my Portage & Main BL 34-44 stove from Cooper's Wood Heating Supply and my dealer Brian Cooper.
Muddy hill and lack of a poured concrete pad required my temporary furnace location to be a couple 4" x 4"s off the driveway.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Delivery_1_05APR14.jpg)
I wonder what this metal handle is? Rumor has it there are shaker grates inside. 8)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Delivery_2_05APR14.jpg)
Easy BL 34-44 back panel access and back chimney exit. Plumbing and access is protected from the elements with a lockable access panel.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Delivery_3_05APR14.jpg)
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She's a beauty :thumbup:
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April 6, 2014: Back to life in the trench... :( :P :P :P :P
After 34" (top of the pipe) Logstor burial in flume sand, I added additional flume sand to create a 6-inch space (vertical) between the buried Logstor and the 1-inch electrical conduit riding directly above. The sides of the trench and flume sand bed were treated gratuitously with Drexel 41% glyophosphate and surfactant as a weed and tree root infiltration preventative measure.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Electrical_Logstor_Ditch_Install_2_05APR14.jpg)
Copper wire was spiral-wrapped around the Logstor piping and the electrical conduit in order to discourage/prevent root intrusion after burial.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Electrical_Logstor_Ditch_Install_1_05APR14.jpg)
A Wally World green ratchet strap and shovel were utilized for scooting the Logstor over just enough to be able to install and countersink the Link Seal into the poured concrete wall. Countersinking the Link Seal slightly allows the unit to seal but avoids damage from shovels in the unfortunate event of needing to dig up the line. ....an ounce of prevention goes a long, long way I hear. ;)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Electrical_Logstor_Ditch_Install_3_05APR14.jpg)
You can observe the Link Seal around the electrical conduit countersunk into the wall for protection. Note how flume sand was not used at the pipe and conduit entry into the wall (suggestion from a building contractor and LinkSeal company). Because my backfill is some of the world's thickest, heavy clay, I used its natural ability to shed water away from my basement wall.
Also of note, note the tight packing of backfilled heavy clay around the Logstor for a "stress free" and supported install. This is of high importance when supporting pipes making 90 degree turns entering a structure. Shifting could cause outer casing damage and was intentionally avoided using thought and care during the backfill operation.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Electrical_Logstor_Ditch_Install_4_05APR14.jpg)
More pictures and text to come once the rain stops again and I can take additional photos and note any installation ideas / lessons learned. O0
Stay tuned. - Slopster
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Two suggestions:
1: If a person wants a heavy enough circuit to run a wire or tig machine at their boiler, run a gauge heavier yet than the charts might suggest. I have a 120 amp portable wire welder, is only supposed to take 25amps input to get full rated output, if your run of 10 gauge wire has any length to it at all it won't be enough. Go a full 8 gauge instead. Don't ask me how I know about crappy welds from lack of juice.
2: Sloppy, if your clay is anything like we have up here in the arctic part of the state, don't completely back fill at the house. If its wet at all you won't be able to pack that clay under the pipe by the wall worth a crap. If you completely fill the trench then when it all settles it will have a shearing effect on the logstor. We've dug trenches here at the farm for various reasons and have it take years for them to quit settling. Same when we install drainage tiles, may take a couple of years before they stay leveled off and you can't see right where they run.
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Both great suggestions mlappin, nice looking job and stove sloppy, how about a picture of the inside of that beast!
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Thanks for the suggestions and feed back mlappin! :thumbup:
I nixed the whole idea of having a heavy gauge wire in the trench to run a welder. Why? I do not know how to weld and would not be performing the work anyway. I suppose I can always trench a line in at a later date if I change my mind. But yes, I will run 8/3 or larger for a welder power supply if I install one.
Backfill,,, yep I was thinking more about that. Your point about sheer force on the Logstor and conduit are well-received. I can leave it exposed for a while at the wall but I honestly do not like a pit exposed for that amount of time. Preference thing. Is there a better material to use for the backfill at this spot (that won't be a problem with sheering as the ground settles)? :-\
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Well the suggestion that you use the native clay for back fill right at the wall is a sound one. Adding sand will just let the water from the surrounding clay collect where you went thru the wall.
Backfill up to a couple feet of the wall, then for expected heavy rains you can place planks over it and a tarp to shed excess water.
Years ago St. Joseph county changed some rules around, you now have to be licensed and bonded to install septics and do sewer hookups. Basically doubled the price of systems, so Father got into that to keep the help busy in the off times of the year. He had to redo two jobs the first year he was in the biz, both because the clay settled too much around the pipe coming out of the wall and cracked it. Now if replacing or installing a new pipe they hand dig the last several inches to be even with the bottom of the hole in the wall so the bottom of the trench is never disturbed. Soil can't fall away from the bottom of the pipe if it doesn't have to settle in the first place.
Same with fixing drainage tile, never dig too deep then back fill to get back up to grade, it will settle and pull your patch or connection apart then you get to do it again.
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Well the suggestion that you use the native clay for back fill right at the wall is a sound one. Adding sand will just let the water from the surrounding clay collect where you went thru the wall.
Thank you. I am NOT a professional on utilities and ditches but fortunately for me, my brother-in-law is (and sounds like you have a lot of experience in this area too). It just "made sense" to me.
Backfill Methodology/Thoughts: Although I did not mention it in previous posts, but the Logstor is fully supported with 8"-10" flume sand right up to the 90° turn and 2 feet straight piece that go into the pipe. The flume sand was then compacted the entire trench length with a hand tamp. The Logstor was laid onto this flume sand foundation, straightened, and then covered with another 12 inches of flume sand and hand tamped again. About 6-7" of flume sand over the top of the Logstor.
The 1" electrical conduit was then laid on that flume sand foundation and covered with 3 inches more of flume sand. and tamped. The main run was backfilled over the electrical conduit and flume sand with many loader buckets of clay using the New Holland TC33D tractor. I completed compaction with the weight of the loader, tractor, and a 1600 lbs 4-in1 box blade. Many runs back and forth squishing it all down for good compaction.
I am certain "the turn" and main run (90 feet) were fully supported with good, compacted base.
Backfill up to a couple feet of the wall, then for expected heavy rains you can place planks over it and a tarp to shed excess water.
This is a really good suggestion that I am going to use. :thumbup:
...Now if replacing or installing a new pipe they hand dig the last several inches to be even with the bottom of the hole in the wall so the bottom of the trench is never disturbed. Soil can't fall away from the bottom of the pipe if it doesn't have to settle in the first place.
Because I core-drilled from the outside of the wall into the interior, I had to dig down 8 inches below the lower, 6" core-drilled hole (in order to mount the core drill mounting plate to the wall). I dig fill that back up with heavy clay and hand tamped the heck out of it.... all the way up and just over the top of the Logstor as it enters the house. I am hoping this will eliminate/minimize and major settling at the wall itself (but your point on clay settling slowly over years of time is well-known by me; it happened during the original, lackluster backfill job of the original build some 14 years ago).
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Both great suggestions mlappin, nice looking job and stove sloppy, how about a picture of the inside of that beast!
I will take some more stove pictures once the rain ends.... didn't want to open it up in the downpour. ;)
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Thank you. I am NOT a professional on utilities and ditches but fortunately for me, my brother-in-law is (and sounds like you have a lot of experience in this area too). It just "made sense" to me.
You're welcome. Tend to learn a trick or two when you've lived on a clay farm for a little over 40 years.
Good trick around here is when doing foundations lay a tile around the bottom with pea gravel, then another one further up the wall a couple feet shy of grade, then cap the whole thing off with clay sloping away from the foundation. With a downpour the clay cap keeps the water from the foundation in the first place so the tiles have little to do.
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mlappin- Do you think the following picture displays adequate support for the Logstor and electrical conduit if I were to just add clay for the remainder of the backfill? :-\
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Electrical_Logstor_Ditch_Install_1_05APR14.jpg)
I'm about 1/2 way supported on the radius of the turn with flume sand. I just need to get more flume sand if I use it for backfill support on the corner bend of the piping/conduit. ;)
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Thats really hard to say, i have a spot in the driveway at the moment that is actually dusty on top, but it's in the shade most of the afternoon. Still has frost in the drive and water on top of the frost, not only can you see it move when you walk on it but you can feel it shift as well.
With the water standing in the corner by the conduit 90 I'd say not.
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With the water standing in the corner by the conduit 90 I'd say not.
That was rain from the evening before. ;)
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April 19, 2014: I had another project to finish so I have been a little slower on progress of my installation. Predominantly worked on backfilling and site preparation for my concrete pad.
Backfilled clay/dirt up to the house where the electrical and Logstor enter into my basement wall.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Backfilled_1.jpg)
A look at everything buried from along the house and out to concrete pad site (Logstor sticking up vertically).
Underground pipe and electrical follow the red line in the picture.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Backfilled_2.jpg)
Looks like another 8 to 10 inches of dirt needed to raise the grade up to the brick line and keep the rain draining away from the house. I really dislike the metal window wells to the basement windows. Might pull these and find a more attractive solution prior to final grading.... we'll see what's available. ;)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Backfilled_3.jpg)
Trees adjacent to the underground Logstor and electrical lines have been cut and will be removed via backhoe.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Backfilled_4.jpg)
A look from the OWB pad site back toward the house and the smooth dirt work of my New Holland and its grader box. The big shagbark hickory and green ash trees next to the goat pen enclosure (dwarf Nigerian wethers) will be brought down and stumps to be removed (no tree roots are going to be around to grow into my lines!). More firewood for the future I suppose. :-\
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Backfilled_6.jpg)
Blaze orange marking paint on the ground shows where the BL 34-44 will sit. 5 tons of number 53s stone arrives this week and will be compacted for a solid OWB furnace site.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Backfilled_5.jpg)
That's all for now guys.... stay tuned in. ;) :thumbup:
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I love how your lines in the picture show the whereabouts of the pipe nice job sloppy!
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Great Job Sloppy,
I can't wait to start mine. I am just waiting for the 1/2 loads to go off to start.
Puckerave
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Thanks JWood and puckerdave. :thumbup: Once Indiana's wild turkey hunting season is over (May 11th), I will be able to pick the pace up on finishing this outdoor piece of my project. ;)
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Just come up to my house and shoot one out the window!
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Just come up to my house and shoot one out the window!
Careful.... ;) I'm an actual turky hunter... we drive ANYWHERE just to hunt these majestic birds. ;D
Absolutely a beautiful Tom turkey. What state was that picture taken in?
The Tom looks like an Eastern wild turkey subspecies. Yes? :-\
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Northern, MN we never had Turkey around here until about 5 years ago I heard the DNR released them in certain areas and the just took off like crazy. I've never hunted them just because they were never around I believe last year you had to apply for a permit now you can buy them over the counter just like deer!
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Species I'm not sure cause I know very little about Turkey, deer is my favorite thing to hunt and pheasant :thumbup:
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Was just looking stuff up and your right they are Eastern wild Turkey, now I also saw something that stood out, the word Snood and you are a turkey hunter it makes sense now!
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Was just looking stuff up and your right they are Eastern wild Turkey, now I also saw something that stood out, the word Snood and you are a turkey hunter it makes sense now!
Yep. In fact, you can learn a little bit about the "parts of a gobbler" at the following link.
LINK: Parts of a Gobbler (Click Here and Move Your Cursor Over the Beak) (http://www.nwtf.org/all_about_turkeys/tom_diagram.html)
;D :bag: :thumbup: 8)
Bedtime reading for everything you did (and probably did not) want to know about all the sub-species of wild turkeys.
LINK: Eastern Subspecies: 5.1 to 5.3 million wild turkeys (Click Here) (http://www.nwtf.org/conservation/bulletins/bulletin_1_9-9-09.pdf)
LINK: Osceola (Florida) Subspecies: 80,000 to 100,000 wild turkeys (Click Here) (http://www.nwtf.org/conservation/bulletins/bulletin_2_9-9-09.pdf)
LINK: Rio Grande Subspecies: 1,022,700 to 1,025,700 wild turkeys (Click Here) (http://www.nwtf.org/conservation/bulletins/bulletin_3_9-9-09.pdf)
LINK: Merriam's Subspecies: 334,460 to 344,460 wild turkeys (Click Here) (http://www.nwtf.org/conservation/bulletins/bulletin_4_9-9-09.pdf)
LINK: Gould's Subspecies: 650 to 800 wild turkeys (Click Here) (http://www.nwtf.org/conservation/bulletins/bulletin_5_9-9-09.pdf)
LINK: Ocellated Turkey (Click Here) (http://www.nwtf.org/conservation/bulletins/bulletin_6_9-9-09.pdf)
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Good to know thanks :thumbup:
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Thanks for all the great info and pictures. I have picked up a lot of good stuff on your install and will be applying some of it when I get going on mine.
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You are very welcome gainerspot. :)
That is what I really like about OWFI.com (this site),,, everyone is pretty straight up on ideas, opinions, and helpfulness. 8)
I am happy anything I have done has helped you and anyone else. :thumbup:
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Lousy with Turkeys around here, have a freaking game preserve across the road called a state park.
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If you are standing on your own property and killing turkeys on the park land and nobody is there to see you, is it still poaching!!!
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You could call that being a conservationist and just controlling the population. We have quite a few turkeys but I've never shot one, just not sure how they taste I've heard mixed reviews, I just wish they quit crapping in the yard because my dog thinks its absolutely necessary to roll in it >:(
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HAHAHAHA, now that's funny
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I could see the humor in it if it was someone else's dog. :thumbup: Just a perk to owning a dog I guess!
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You could call that being a conservationist and just controlling the population. We have quite a few turkeys but I've never shot one, just not sure how they taste I've heard mixed reviews, I just wish they quit crapping in the yard because my dog thinks its absolutely necessary to roll in it >:(
Wild turkey is delicious, actually has flavor unlike store bought turkey. Deep fried is the way to go on those.
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Wild turkey is delicious, actually has flavor unlike store bought turkey. Deep fried is the way to go on those.
Agreed..... unless of course the turkey got some "payback" and rolled in JWood's dog's chit. :o
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:post: that is very possible! Now I got the neighbor inviting himself and his son to hunt on my land and I never gave permission to anyone, he called me at 6:30 am and woke me up then I saw his truck in the driveway and he tells me he's out on the edge of my field and that he saw 75 Turkey, I don't think there was 75 the most I've ever seen out there at once is 18. But I'm too nice so I didn't say anything at the time but I will tonight.
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Plenty 'O Pictures of the Portage & Main BL34-44 Shaker for my buddy slimjim. O0 :thumbup:
Inside the back panel of the BL 34-44 houses the Johnson Controls, on/off switch, and blower.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Rear_Door_1.jpg)
The cooled water return supply ports are tucked upwards in the back of the rear access panel opening. One of the feed lines is also visible in the picture.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Rear_Door_2.jpg)
In this picture, one can see the restrictor plate on the inside-face of the blower. The plate is in the position as shipped from the factory adjustment playing will occur later). The 2nd hot water feed port is partially visible behind the blower in this picture.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Rear_Door_3.jpg)
Looking from an angle just below the blower motor, one can see the lower routing of the air to the over and under air supplies. Pretty simple setup (just the way I like it).
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Rear_Door_4.jpg)
A fellow OWFI.com member asked me recently to obtain some chimney height measurements for my BL 34-44 in order to plan the roof to go over it (respecting all required fire safety distances). From the bottom of the flat foot to the top of the vertical outlet of the chimney (rain cap removed) is 73 inches. There is no active fire in this picture. The cardboard box was utilized for better height measurement. ;)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Chimney_1.jpg)
Same story as the previous picture... chimney height measurement but with a 3-feet extension screwed on to the connection. From the bottom of the flat foot to the top of the vertical outlet of the chimney (rain cap removed) is 108 inches. There is no active fire in this picture either ;)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Chimney_2.jpg)
Just a snapshot of the exhaust outlet out of the back of the BL 34-44 and its gap sealant and configuration.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Chimney_3.jpg)
Now let's take a look/see at the business end (front) of the BL34-44...shall we? ??? (we shall).
The lower access door to the ash pan is a heavy latch assembly style. Really stiff to actuate at present (good thing mind you) as the gaskets have not been regularly compressed with use over time.... yet. :)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Ash_Pan_Closed_1.jpg)
Opening the ash pan access door lets us look at the pan itself, the insulated access door and siliconized rope gasket that slimjim has told us about before. That horizontal rod on my BL 34-44 is part of the shaker grate handle.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Ash_Pan_Opened_2.jpg)
Speaking of ash,,, here is a picture of the heavy duty ash stir tool. Pretty heavy for what it is.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Coal_Stir_Tool.jpg)
Next, inside the front exterior door of the BL 34-44, one can find the heavy duty, insulated access doors to box the firebox (bottom) and the 180-degree reverse turn heat exchanger (top)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Front_Door_1.jpg)
Like all access doors, the heavily silicone covered rope-style door gaskets are found.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Front_Door_Gaskets.jpg)
A closer-up picture of the Portage & Main's well-known 180-degree reverse turn exhaust heat exchanger run. Lots of surface area here to extract heat into the water jacket.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_180_Degree_Heat_Exchanger_Door.jpg)
A wider angle view of the heat exchanger with the Portage & Main brand name stamped into the metal. Simple, tastefully done.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_180_Degree_Heat_Exchanger_Door_2.jpg)
Opening the firebox door, the refractory cement lining, super-thick shaker grates, and fire chamber can be found. The shaker grates are turned "up" to the furthest point in this picture. This should break up any compressed black wood nuggets that may find their way into the hottest of the hardwood fires planned for next winter.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Firebox_Door_1_Refractory_Grates.jpg)
I took my Sony CyberShot camera and was able to point it back toward the door from inside the stove. This is the air port into the fire chamber that provides the "air from above" the fire. The "below the fire" air is drawn in through the square holes in the shaker grates.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Firebox_Door_2_Over_Air_Feed.jpg)
Nothing more here than a closer look at the shaker grates and refractory-lined cement firebox. Attention to detail is evident.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Firebox_Door_3_Shaker_Grates.jpg)
A nice shot of the water baffle that hangs down into the chamber and helps more complete combustion (trapping gases for re-burn).
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Firebox_Door_4_Water_Baffle.jpg)
I had never seen a picture on the internet of exactly where the exhaust gases leave the chamber behind the water baffle so....
I tried a creative position of digital camera looking up into the ceiling of the firebox, behind the water baffle. Viola! There's that little bugger escape hole to the exhaust heat exchanger overhead!
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Firebox_Door_5_Exhaust_Escape.jpg)
The firebox side of the Portage & Main double welds were nice, clean, and "beefy" welds.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Firebox_Door_5_Double_Weld.jpg)
The heavy, laser cut latch work is impressive in appearance and in function. You can really feel the compression on the rope gasket in the door when you press the latch down for closure.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Front_Door_3_Firebox_Latch.jpg)
Both the front and rear access panels are insulated and have sturdy, lockable latches in order to protect the access doors and electronics from the nastiest of Mother Nature's weather elements.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Front_Door_2.jpg)
One day my fill gauge on the BL 34-44 will read "Full" and I can be propane FREE! .... patience Grasshopper.... patience.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Water_Gauge_1.jpg)
That is all the pictures I have for now guys and gals. :photo: Enjoy. 8)
Note: All Outdoor Wood Furnce Info (OWFI) members and Portage & Main dealers, associates, employees are free to use these images per the photographer himself (me, Sloppy Snood).
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Thanks for the pictures Sloppy! Looks Great :thumbup:
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Sure wish I had the steady hand or great camera that you have, AWESOME PICS !
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NICE!! I've seen that stove before!! I'm interested to see the process of getting return ports plumbed in. They are very tight to that insulation on the back wall.
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It actually has a swing joint in it, the piping can be pulled out a bit away from the insulation for more accessibility, Very good attention to detail there Merrilroofing!
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It actually has a swing joint in it, the piping can be pulled out a bit away from the insulation for more accessibility, Very good attention to detail there Merrilroofing!
Thanks for the comments gentlemen. I will take a look at this "swing joint" that I did not notice taking my pictures. :photo:
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Thanks for the great pictures and descriptions,
Sure does look like a well designed and straightforward unit.
Bob
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I like the little details, finished weld beads , components and wiring neat and protected
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Lots of good pictures, looks great. I cant wait until little brother shows up at my house
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Burning a 2840 at the Richmond VA fairgrounds right now guys!! I'm impressed!!!!!!!!
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Do you love it slim?
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YES I DO!
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YES I DO!
Do you have a camera that can take full motion video on an SD media card slimjim? ???
If so, let me know and I can post it on youtube for ya. (http://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/redbull.gif)
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To everyone who is burning the BL thank you it is awesome for those of you who are thinking about it jump on board be for it is to late
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Great install Sloppy.
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Great pictures, very clear.
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Thanks Sloppy, yes I do, just saw this, I would like to do that.
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Hey sloppy, what pump are you using and are you putting it in your basement or on the back of the stove?
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Hey sloppy, what pump are you using and are you putting it in your basement or on the back of the stove?
Most likely a Grundfos Alpha stainless steel on the furnace outside.
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Sloppy,
Where did you get the Link-Seal ?
I looked on line at Lowes, but comes up empty.
Thanks
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Sloppy, where did you get the Link-Seal ?
I looked on line at Lowes, but comes up empty. Thanks
FACO LLC
8651 Castle Park Drive
Indianapolis, IN 46256
(317) 842-3226
LINK: FACO LLC on Google Maps (Click Here) (https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&gbv=2&um=1&ie=UTF-8&fb=1&gl=us&q=faco+indianapolis&hq=faco&hnear=0x886b50ffa7796a03:0xd68e9df640b9ea7c,indianapolis&sa=X&ei=Z93iU4D1GYGvyASr9YHgCw&ved=0CBUQtgM)
FACO can mail a Link-Seal product to you but I do not know what shipping charges would be. I have no professional or personal affiliation with this company (but this is where I bought mine). :)
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Hey nice job on the install. Us newbies really appreciate all of your efforts. Do you mind if I PM you on a couple of Logstor questions I might have? I need to buy some and you might be able to help me out. We live in Owen County Indiana. Thanks so much.
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I replied to your PM and "yes" to Logstor questions. just shoot me a PM. ;)
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BTW, where did you end up renting the drill and 6" bit to get through your basement wall?
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BTW, where did you end up renting the drill and 6" bit to get through your basement wall?
SunBelt Rentals in front of Lowes at 10th street and I-465 in Indianapolis (west side).
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Plenty 'O Pictures of the Portage & Main BL34-44 Shaker for my buddy slimjim. O0 :thumbup:
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_BL3444_Inside_Rear_Door_2.jpg)
The cooled water return ports are tucked upwards in the back of the rear access panel opening. One of the feed lines is also visible in the picture.
Just to make sure, in the pictures above you mention that the cooled water returns are tucked upwards, those are really the supply lines and the lower connection at the bottom is the return correct? According to my drawing from P&M, the supply is at the top and the returns are at the bottom. I sure hope that is right as I just finished connecting all of pumps etc.. in the back of the boiler and I piped with the supply at the top and the returns at the bottom :-\
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You are right EE, supply should be on the top and returns on bottom
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September 28, 2014: I had many projects to finish over the summer that took precedence over my BL 34-44 installation.... until 3 weeks ago.
I utilized my New Holland TC33D 4WD tractor and 7308 loader in order to excavate a site for a 120" x 80" concrete pad. The tractor proved "too useful" for such a task and the hole was dug too deep at around 14 inches. :o :-[ Buy hey, that is okay, just keep filling and compacting stone in there! Ended up with 12-14" of compacted stone for my base when all was said and done. 8)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Pad_Preparation_1_28SEP2014.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Pad_Preparation_2_28SEP2014.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Pad_Preparation_3_28SEP2014.jpg)
Chalk up costs of:
$75 Whacker plate compactor rental
$20 diesel
$25 stone (neighbor had leftover stone)
FREE labor (self :P )
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October 11-18, 2014: Completed construction of 2" x 6" forms for the 120" x 80" concrete pad while also completing the installation and placement and wire-tying of God's gift to concrete pads: #4 rebar! WOOT! 3" rebar chairs were utilized to raise the rebar up off the compacted stone and locate them further in the concrete for a better overall pad strength.
Remember this much: rebar is cheap (in the grand scheme of concrete things) and overkill never hurts in concrete structures holding heavy things. :thumbup:
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Concrete_Pad_3.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Concrete_Pad_2.jpg)
Brother-in-law Dave (and myself) enjoying the day waiting for the concrete truck to arrive ( 1/ 1/2 hours late, LOL!)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Concrete_Pad_1.jpg)
As one could deduce from the pictures, my original idea for a 4" thick pad turned out to be much thicker at 8" thickness. Quite simply, I was tired of moving frontend loaders of stone and decided to make up the remaining grade with concrete, rebar, and steel mesh.
For concrete afficionados' informational purposes, I used the only local ready-mix concrete provider within 20 miles of my home, Cash Concrete Products, Inc (CCP). CCP delivered a really good load of concrete: 4" slump 4,000 psi concrete mix with air, fiber, and stone.
A total of 1 3/4 cubic yards of concrete was utilized (2 yards ordered) and front end loadered up the hill with my New Holland (6-wheel drive concrete truck sunk in the yard and could not climb the hill :( ).
Chalk up:
$326 up for concrete delivered.
$20 for 120 pounds #4 rebar (lots of free leftovers in the price ;) the $20 is for a couple bars of #4 I had to buy at Lowes to finish the rebar layout)
$0 for 16 oz. Cure N Seal concrete sealant
1.6 lbs Lasagna & 2 servings Blackberry Cobbler (priceless) for Concrete Finisher Labor
Rebar was donated free-of-charge by my brother-in-law Dave. Dave also taught me how to properly finish concrete for this type of application (dumping, leveling, floating, edging, floating in steel mesh, brushing, and curing and sealing). Always awesome to have a construction/concrete professional in the family to guide me!
Not pictured but present is Lowes' steel wire mesh floated into the top of the pad 2 inches below the finished surface. Because I was running the tractor, I was unable to take "action photos" during the pour. :(
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Concrete_Pad_4.jpg)
Indiana D.O.T.-approved cure and seal sealing agent (white pigmented) was utilized to seal the concrete and allow for proper curing of the pad. I will have to retrieve the name of the product from the 5-gallon bucket later,,, forgot what the name brand (sealant) was. ;) Pictures show a spacious "cutout" for navigating the Logstor piping and electrical wire/conduit up into the Ultimizer.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Concrete_Pad_5.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Concrete_Pad_6.jpg)
Dirt (heavy clay really) from the pad excavation was utilized to make the finish grade around the pad level with its finished surface. The water is from me spraying off the surface after my goats drug dirt all over it and pooped on it. :o :bash: :P
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Concrete_Pad_7.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Concrete_Pad_8.jpg)
Up next? A Case 621 (Click Here for Machine Specs) (http://www.casece.com/en_us/Equipment/Wheel-Loaders/Pages/621F.aspx) to lift and carry the BL 34-44 up the hill and onto the new pad and begin hookup to the BL 34-44 boiler. I have a machine scheduled to move the BL 34-44 into place this weekend. I will take more photos during the boiler move and the upcoming indoor plumbing installation. :)
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Nice job on the pad Sloppy! What are the odds of hitting the rebar when/ if you drill for anchoring the stove?
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Nice job on the pad Sloppy! What are the odds of hitting the rebar when/ if you drill for anchoring the stove?
Not to be a smart *ss, but anchor the stove? Is somebody going to steal it?
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I was kinda wondering the same thing Mlappin!
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One of our dealers, I think maybe Wi. had somebody back right into his lot and haul one away.
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Nice job on the pad Sloppy! What are the odds of hitting the rebar when/ if you drill for anchoring the stove?
Not to be a smart *ss, but anchor the stove? Is somebody going to steal it?
Jeepers I would hope not but these days who knows? No I only assume since they gave me the option to and I had the means to do it why not?
After all, I did anchor the house to the foundation, was that silly? We ordered the stove after a wicked storm uprooted trees in our area and also being in an open area why would I not, didn't cost much for a little peace of mind.
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Welllllll the B-L is in pretty high demand right now so perhaps lagging it down isn't a bad idea.
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Nice job on the pad Sloppy! What are the odds of hitting the rebar when/ if you drill for anchoring the stove?
My BL 34-44 will not be anchored to the concrete pad. At 2850 lbs plus 1,000 lbs of water, 2 U.S. tons ought to hold it right where it is. ;)
As you will see in the next post of mine, if they can steal it off the hill behind my house, good luck. A fully loaded 6-wheel drive concrete truck of 58,000 lbs couldn't even make it up the hill. :o :thumbup:
If they do make it up the hill, my dwarf Nigerian "attack goats" will bite them in the gonads. :thumbup:
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SOOO you aren't worried about the wind blowing it over on it's side then?
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October 24, 2014: The Case 621F arrived and the job of moving the stove from the side of my drive to its final location on the pad was completed without a problem. No substitute for large machines to move heavy objects! :) Rotated the stove in the air until correctly positioned and operator Mike set her down gently.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Furnace_Set_on_Pad_1_24OCT2014.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Furnace_Set_on_Pad_2_24OCT2014.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Furnace_Set_on_Pad_3_24OCT2014.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Furnace_Set_on_Pad_4_24OCT2014.jpg)
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/OWB_Furnace_Set_on_Pad_5_24OCT2014.jpg)
Chalk up: $80 for machine operator labor.
Next up? Stripping Logstor and prepping for connections to supply and return inlets on the stove. Capping off the second set of supply/return inlets. :thumbup:
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Those are some pretty nice looking bush hogs in the backgroud there Slopster' do they have names?
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The goat that is predominantly black in color is "Windfire" and the other goat with more white coloring is "Magic." 5 year old dwarf Nigerian wethers.
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I thought they were dogs at first, until I blew up the picture,did they help with clearing the land?
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They might as well be dogs... they follow you everywhere and like to sleep in the F250 truck bed. They do help eat all of the hickory nuts, acorns, walnuts, and beech nuts that fall on the hill in the fall (like walking on marbles at times). I used a Caterpillar D6 bulldozer for "shaping" that nice, tapering grade to the hill face.
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They certainly look well fed!
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Those two bozos have put on their winter fat and heavy coats... the winter coats make them look larger than they are. So are the lives of the free-ranging, poop machine duo.... LOL
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Nice job on the pad Sloppy! What are the odds of hitting the rebar when/ if you drill for anchoring the stove?
Not to be a smart *ss, but anchor the stove? Is somebody going to steal it?
Jeepers I would hope not but these days who knows? No I only assume since they gave me the option to and I had the means to do it why not?
After all, I did anchor the house to the foundation, was that silly? We ordered the stove after a wicked storm uprooted trees in our area and also being in an open area why would I not, didn't cost much for a little peace of mind.
A house catches a LOT more wind for starters.
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A house catches a LOT more wind for starters.
I use dwarf Nigerian goats for wind breakers so I am uncertain I needed any anchor bolts at all. LOL!
Crow's point has me thinking though (a good thing sometimes)... I need to check with my home owner's insurance company to make sure the stove is covered in the event of tornado damage. But honestly, even if it is anchored during a tornado, it will probably be destroyed (I saw that movie "Twister" and now tornadoes scare me). Nonetheless, I may just add 4 strap bolts over the feet and epoxy them into the pad for good measure. Thanks Crow. :thumbup:
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November 9, 2014: Finally got around to drawing my home's layout and beginning to figure out what I want to use to heat and materials I am going to need. The following picture is the 1st floor of Casa de Snood (CDS) that my family and I spend 80+% of our waking hours in living. Note that while we have a propane-fueled, forced air heating/cooling system, the great room, kitchen, and dining rooms are a good 7 degrees F to 10 degrees F colder than the bedrooms and bathrooms in the winter (lopsided as all heck! >:( ).
Note: Scale of the drawing is 1 square on the graph paper is 1 foot of length/width.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/medium/CDK_1st_Floor_Heating_Layout_2.jpg)
In order to heat this space and the basement and garage, I first drew the layout of the areas and then used colored pencils to kind of figure out where I was going to run copper pipe and Pex for radiant floor heating (the red-dashed line area situated below the kitchen, dining room, and part of the great room). Here is my basement/garage drawing and thoughts on paper:
Note: Scale of the drawing is 1 square on the graph paper is 1 foot of length/width.
(http://www.jesseshunting.com/photopost/data/500/medium/CDK_Basement_Heating_Layout_1.jpg)
Basic heating system layout I have in mind includes the following:
- 20-plate heat exchanger for the water heater
- water-to-air heat exchanger for the forced air system (plenum size is 17" x 21" )
- 1/2" PEXa radiant loops (for radiant floor heating in the entire Great Room, Ktichen, and Dining Room)
- 60,000 to 100,000 BTU/hr unit heater in the garage hanging from the ceiling
- a Watts 5-loop stainless steel manifold (or similar) for radiant loops
- Grundfos pump(s) as needed
Aside from the radiant floor loops (total number of zones is undetermined at this point) being 1/2-inch PEXa, I intend on using copper and bronze ball valves for the main loop of the plumbing.
Any suggestions system designers? Need to start gathering materials. ;-)
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My immediate concern would be the carpet in the great room, it will act as insulation against the radiant floor, not saying that it won't heat but its effectiveness will be diminished, will you be adding anything for heat there, My suggestion might be a NICE cast iron rad for that area. The next thing that I might suggest would be to add some heated towel racks for the bathrooms, they can be controlled either by temp or my choice would be a timer, imagine getting out of the shower to a hot towel and warm bathroom! You might want to change your mind on the main loops overhead in the basement and go with pex al pex or Fosta Pex as the copper may cook the floors!
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Slopster, could you PM me your phone number again, I had lots of calls after you today and now can't find yours, I'll have crappy service tomorrow, I'll call when I can.
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Hi Sloppy,
You may already have installed the Logstor at the rear by now however if you have not you may be interested how I did it.
The lower section of the cabinet can be removed and then take out the appropriate knock outs. They are harder to get out than I expected, very tough metal. Slide the hole over the Logstor and re attach the cabinet to the stove by digging back the Logstor.
Maybe everyone does it this way I don't know. I came up a few inches then stripped to the pex.
I see you have a wire or two going in that way, if not using conduit or B/X you can lay the wire against the Logstor entering the cabinet then take a piece of the Logstor black skin ( you will have some cut off from your piece, ) and snap it around the main logstor for wire protection from below the ground into the stove. There is room.
Bob
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Slopster, could you PM me your phone number again, I had lots of calls after you today and now can't find yours, I'll have crappy service tomorrow, I'll call when I can.
PM sent Slim.
Also, thank you for the suggestions Pinehouse. The Logstor was installed just as you described. I am bringing 1-inch schedule 40 underground conduit up into the bottom where the punch outs are but I am just going to drill a hole with a 1 1/8" hole saw bit (mainly because of where my electrical conduit and the wires come up out of the ground; it is a little bit to the side of the unused punchout metal holes).
For the Logstor knockout hole, I ran a Dremel tool to remove all of the sharp point metal burrs; did not want any cuts on the Logstor pipe casing. ;D
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To keep from possibly cutting the Logstor, I took a piece of 1/4" gas line, slit the length with a utility blade and slid over the sharp edge. Works / looks good....
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To keep from possibly cutting the Logstor, I took a piece of 1/4" gas line, slit the length with a utility blade and slid over the sharp edge. Works / looks good....
:post:
I've made many a grommet using gas line or something similar then using weatherstrip adhesive to glue it in place.
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To keep from possibly cutting the Logstor, I took a piece of 1/4" gas line, slit the length with a utility blade and slid over the sharp edge. Works / looks good....
Great idea! I'm going to use this. Thank you. :thumbup:
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So have you gotten this up and running? How is your system heating the home? How much wood have you went through? Can we see a picture of your piping/flow assembly? Do you have an auxiliary water tank system for thermal storage? I am in the process of designing a system myself and I get a lot of conflicting information on designs and my dealer is NO help.
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need an update, how did it do last winter? ready for this season? changes? How did the inside installation go?