Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
241
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Finding my well
« on: November 21, 2013, 11:08:43 AM »
"Usually" a submersible has an above ground cap, that's where they drilled it and dropped the piping and pump in (and take it out for repairs) but there are obviously many ways it can be done. Part of my job is to locate private utilities and an underground locator will follow a metal pipe and many tell depth too, if you know of someone who works with utility stuff near you I would ask before starting to dig with a shovel.
242
Heatmor / Re: Something to add about heatmor 200 css 1996 model
« on: November 20, 2013, 08:14:02 PM »
Interesting you would have the same comment about the boiling at almost the same time. I can see that it would be much easier to load it with that plate removed but just never did, if it really doesn't make a difference...?
243
Heatmor / Re: Something to add about heatmor 200 css 1996 model
« on: November 20, 2013, 03:24:25 PM »
I have never removed that shield Idaho but I can see how that may change things. The funny thing is I don't think my boiler started doing this until a couple years ago, I am going to add a 45 degree fitting on the bottom and try that to give it more of a straight shot at the door when it's closed. After all the hose changes I have done over the years I may have cut the bottom hose a pinch too short and that is making it restrict.
244
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Odd noise
« on: November 19, 2013, 01:50:35 PM »
What you are describing sounds like boiling water to me.
245
Pools & Hot Tubs / Re: Hot Tub Motor
« on: November 19, 2013, 11:51:45 AM »
Kind of unusual to see a cap start motor with an internal capacitor but they are obviously out there!
I dont know how old your pump is but you may consider putting a new wet end on the pump while you have it out, that makes a whale of a difference if the impeller is worn at all. Usually the wet end is pretty easy to change and cost about $40.
I dont know how old your pump is but you may consider putting a new wet end on the pump while you have it out, that makes a whale of a difference if the impeller is worn at all. Usually the wet end is pretty easy to change and cost about $40.
246
Pools & Hot Tubs / Re: Hot Tub Motor
« on: November 18, 2013, 01:27:54 PM »
Sounds like the motor's internal (Klixon) thermal overload element is sensing high current (heat) and then opening but once it cools it closes then it starts all over again. Does the motor have an external capacitor mounted on it (a cap start motor has a bulged metal cover on the outside containing the capacitor)? If so it may only need a capacitor which is pretty cheap. This link is pretty helpful and no I'm not a salesman!
http://www.spadepot.com/spacyclopedia/pumps.htm
http://www.spadepot.com/spacyclopedia/pumps.htm
247
Plumbing / Re: Aquastack
« on: November 18, 2013, 11:09:41 AM »
That's funny HR! You are right about no response in this thread though, I thought maybe someone would at least rip it apart or maybe have made one themselves and wanted to sell a knock-off! Maybe we could go halves on one, you can use it all summer!!!
248
Plumbing / Re: Aquastack
« on: November 17, 2013, 08:19:59 AM »
I dug up an old post on this forum about it but not very helpful, recently it was mentioned on the HeatSource 1 brand post on this forum so at least one person is using it, hoping to hear from others.
I have the same concern about the external piping Hondaracer but if it really saved a bunch of wood/effort I guess that would be OK by me! I can see where a person could make one like it, anybody out there doing that?
I have the same concern about the external piping Hondaracer but if it really saved a bunch of wood/effort I guess that would be OK by me! I can see where a person could make one like it, anybody out there doing that?
249
Anybody else have any experience with an Aquastack? I did some searching but couldn't come up with a whole lot of good info. Was hoping someone has had one of these for a while and we could get their point of view or possibly a similar product?
http://bestsolarboilers.com/aquastack/
http://bestsolarboilers.com/aquastack/
250
Heatsource1 / Re: No leaks
« on: November 16, 2013, 08:02:20 AM »
Aqua stack heat saver? I will search on that, never heard of it, thanks.
Not sure about the boiling in the door, I just don't want to overheat and warp the door, concerned the hoses are distorting at the fittings and restricting the water movement through the door? Have heard recently to try semi truck hosing for replacement, maybe braided hosing? I haven't tried that yet but put valves on the boiler side to make changing them quicker. Doesn't it seem the hoses are least restricted when the door is halfway open? Especially the bottom one to me.
I have been using treatment from altheatsupply for the last 3 years, the manual only talked about ph and I did that since new, now I test for nitrites as well as ph.
http://www.altheatsupply.com/protech-300-test-kit.html
Not trying to sell this stuff, it's just what I use, hard to say if it will pay off but it is pretty cheap to do in the long run.
How about the anode rod? I replaced it for the first 5 years or so but the last one broke off at the top when I tried to remove it, I did a little searching around and found that most other brands don't use them, found I had lots of gunk from the used rods in the bottom of my boiler, so much that I had to flush my boiler to get it off the bottom, read that the deposit would keep the chemical treatment from getting to the metal. I even had to remove valve and keep stirring with a rod to keep the drain flowing, did that a couple summers ago, since then no rod. Not sure how often to flush the boiler now, hate to lose all the treatment otherwise I would do it every year.
Not sure about the boiling in the door, I just don't want to overheat and warp the door, concerned the hoses are distorting at the fittings and restricting the water movement through the door? Have heard recently to try semi truck hosing for replacement, maybe braided hosing? I haven't tried that yet but put valves on the boiler side to make changing them quicker. Doesn't it seem the hoses are least restricted when the door is halfway open? Especially the bottom one to me.
I have been using treatment from altheatsupply for the last 3 years, the manual only talked about ph and I did that since new, now I test for nitrites as well as ph.
http://www.altheatsupply.com/protech-300-test-kit.html
Not trying to sell this stuff, it's just what I use, hard to say if it will pay off but it is pretty cheap to do in the long run.
How about the anode rod? I replaced it for the first 5 years or so but the last one broke off at the top when I tried to remove it, I did a little searching around and found that most other brands don't use them, found I had lots of gunk from the used rods in the bottom of my boiler, so much that I had to flush my boiler to get it off the bottom, read that the deposit would keep the chemical treatment from getting to the metal. I even had to remove valve and keep stirring with a rod to keep the drain flowing, did that a couple summers ago, since then no rod. Not sure how often to flush the boiler now, hate to lose all the treatment otherwise I would do it every year.
251
Heatsource1 / Re: No leaks
« on: November 14, 2013, 07:28:54 PM »
Cashtech, I have an almost 10 year old HS1, got the same CVR letter, they even posted on this site, see past posts. Made my last bladder out of a truck inner tube and it is equal to the original (thanks to help form this forum), spare parts are easily ordered from Grainger or try
http://www.altheatsupply.com/shop-by-needs/outdoor-wood-furnace-parts.html the last site has water testing stuff too more involved than aquarium supplies.
Any problems with door hoses or boiling in the door?
From what I gather there are not a lot of us around, Heatmor is a very close model, sister models in the right years. Glad to see someone else is out there, happy woodboiling!
http://www.altheatsupply.com/shop-by-needs/outdoor-wood-furnace-parts.html the last site has water testing stuff too more involved than aquarium supplies.
Any problems with door hoses or boiling in the door?
From what I gather there are not a lot of us around, Heatmor is a very close model, sister models in the right years. Glad to see someone else is out there, happy woodboiling!
252
Heatmor / Re: Something to add about heatmor 200 css 1996 model
« on: November 14, 2013, 07:55:46 AM »
I think I may have shortened my lower hose a bit too much the last time I replaced the hoses, it seems to distort when I have the door closed which I think is restricting the flow enough to make the water in the door boil. I put valves on my hoses so I can change them with out draining the boiler, I think I may try getting metal braided hoses like they use in muscle car engines, the semi hose thing got me thinking about better hoses and maybe that will help with the door, dont want that door to get too hot and warp. I am toying with that idea of the 45 degree elbow on the bottom one also but not sure, will probably fit one on there and see how it looks first. It's a funny thing, seems to me they fit best when the door is halfway open and compromised when the door is either open all the way or closed all the way.
253
Heatmor / Re: Something to add about heatmor 200 css 1996 model
« on: November 08, 2013, 08:24:20 AM »
Hey Heat my HS1 is a Heatmor knockoff, that tip on the semi heater hoses is a good one, I change mine every year now because of past failures, I always wonder what would be better, will be trying that next year for sure. Do you ever hear boiling water in the door? It takes a few tries to get it right to cut the hoses just the right length so it allows the door to swing all the way and yet doesn't pinch with the door shut, thought of maybe getting a 45 elbow on the tank side especially for the bottom one. Since you brought this up you must have had yours leak before also?
Had mine since 04 and also really like my stove.
Had mine since 04 and also really like my stove.
254
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: My Stove Journey
« on: November 08, 2013, 08:07:22 AM »
You're going to like your tub with OWB heat John, soaked for a while this morning in mine. The temperature regulation is not quite as precise as electric on mine but still within a couple degrees, have been experimenting to keep it a little closer.
One caution, you may already know but 104 is as high as tubs are programmed to run because of threat of hyperthermia, once you have the boiler running it you can really let it fly if you wish, be careful if you have others especially kids and expose them to high temps for an extended amount of time.
One caution, you may already know but 104 is as high as tubs are programmed to run because of threat of hyperthermia, once you have the boiler running it you can really let it fly if you wish, be careful if you have others especially kids and expose them to high temps for an extended amount of time.