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Author Topic: Burn Time  (Read 15421 times)

slimjim

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #15 on: November 21, 2014, 01:46:45 PM »

THAT is the GOAL!
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Wood boiler sales, service and installation for the Northeastern USA.

MD20/20

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2014, 06:54:45 PM »

 Is it OK to let the water temps drop that low?
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EE Farm Boy

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #17 on: November 21, 2014, 07:23:08 PM »

Trust me, water temps below 140 is a no no from what I have read and I will try to prevent that at all cost making sure I keep the wood completely full before going to bed.  But, everyone once it a while it will happen.  Even then, I have never noticed any condensation in my boiler though. 

This brings me to another question?  Is the aquastat reading on the A419 really accurate?  The reason I ask is there is probably a 8 to 10 degree differential between my Watts dial temp reading and the A419.  The A419 is much lower, I even set the water temp to 200 on the Aquastat just to see if I could get Steam coming from the boiler.  No steam, so it makes me think maybe something is off.  Maybe that's why I have never seen condensation, 120 on my Aquastat is not really 120?  Who knows, but I am warm and I guess that is what matters ;)
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Cabo

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #18 on: November 21, 2014, 08:10:29 PM »

I would trust the accuracy of the Johnson control over the dial gauges any day.  I have used these controls for years in both heating and cooling applications and never had any issues.  I'm not saying they couldn't be off but I haven't seen one go bad yet.
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slimjim

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #19 on: November 22, 2014, 03:52:52 AM »

Agreed Cabo 100%
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Wood boiler sales, service and installation for the Northeastern USA.

nnniic

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #20 on: December 17, 2014, 02:09:35 PM »

there it is! I was looking for this post. I am bumping it up for another reader purpose. Thanks for the timer /aquastat idea, exactly what I was looking for!

I myself freqeuntly run the furnace with low temps....I suspect that one of my underground pipe is flooded with groundwater, which does not helkp insulation! I hence plan to install two of these systems.....one to cut as describe the blower when water start cooling (low fire) and another one in my house to cut the heating appliance when the water gets below 80F so I dont start cooling my house

Nic
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Oak Hillbilly

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #21 on: December 17, 2014, 06:29:26 PM »

I see that Marty was able to post a picture this morning so I'm going to try and post the diagram this morning for those of you who are interested, Darn it won't go, I have had several requests for it so I'll try to get Marty to post it on this thread, Guys if you want it Please send me an E-Mail request and I'll send it right back, my E-Mail is mainlycustomsawing@yahoo.com
  The whole Idea is to interrupt the power wire to the blower/actuator and pass it through a Strap on Aqua Stat( I use a honeywell 6006C  1018 ) this gets placed on the supply line off the back of the boiler, use the R+W terminals (they make connection on temp rise) set the Aqua Stat at 160 degrees, this kills the blower below set point, now where you interrupted the power wire, attach 2 more wires to run over to a 60 minute timer ( I use the TORK A560MW ) this allows you to bypass the Aqua-Stat for 60 minutes while the fire is rekindling itself

Don't know how soon i'll get to this, but sounds like a great idea and definitely see the reason behind it...
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Jwood

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #22 on: December 17, 2014, 09:36:04 PM »

I can get more than 12 hours easily without even trying that's filling it maybe a tad higher than the bottom of the door heating 2500sq feet garage is not hooked up right now forced air upstairs with the thermostat set at 72 and radiant infloor in the basement set at 72 also heating hot water through a sidearm
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gspren

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #23 on: December 23, 2014, 07:21:16 AM »

  I may do this but here is how I handle our frequent 4-5 day trips to the cabin or beach house. The evening before leaving I load it heavy after 10PM. In the morning when leaving I kill the blowers but leave the pumps going so the oil boiler will maintain about 145 temp. When we get home the boiler will be partly full of warm charred wood so I stick a kerosene soaked corncob in and light it then turn on the blowers. By the time we have the car unloaded the fire is blazing and the temp climbing. I keep a coffee can of corncobs with about 2" of kerosene near the stove with an old pair of pliers so I can do a quick light without getting dirty.
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nnniic

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #24 on: December 27, 2014, 08:46:56 PM »

I like the kerosene idea. thanks!
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slimjim

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #25 on: December 28, 2014, 03:15:57 AM »

Great Idea gspren with the corn cobs! PLEASE do not put any raw fuel into a wood boiler by throwing it in on top of the coals and wood or ashes, a year ago a young man nearly lost his life near me by throwing in gas to light his boiler, he now has 3'rd degree burns over most of his body, fuel oil or any flammable can do the same thing when it turns to gases (smoke), the gases are EXPLOSIVE!  In the absence of corn cobs, I like to use a propane torch, it is much safer!
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Wood boiler sales, service and installation for the Northeastern USA.

Jwood

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #26 on: December 28, 2014, 07:01:41 AM »

I agree with slim buy a weed burner and that's the best way in my opinion, then in the spring you can also burn off creasote with it.
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ijon

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #27 on: December 28, 2014, 08:47:00 AM »

Don't you just love those weed burners. I use them to start brush piles. Works like a flame thrower.
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Jwood

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #28 on: December 28, 2014, 08:54:55 AM »

Yes I love them!
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North Central Minnesota
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Jwood

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Re: Burn Time
« Reply #29 on: December 30, 2014, 08:00:12 AM »

-10F last night with windchills hitting -25-35 still managed 12 hour burn with hot coals when I went out to fill it.
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