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[schoppy]

The weather turned warm here again so it hasn't had to work hard at all. I am probably over loading it also. How long should you be looking at for burn times per loading? I haven't even loaded it half full yet and it seems to go forever but like I said it has turned warmer here.

mlappin, you sprayed the round bypass damper cover with silicone? Was this before firing it and how do you get to yours to clean it? Yours should have all the latest changes on it too shouldn't it? My manual says to check for creosote build up once per week in the heat transfer tubes and chimney using the top access panel on the roof of the furnace and mine doesn't have that unless it is really hidden well. It looks like on mine I would need to remove the venter assembly and mounting plate to access this area.

My dealer had only sold one G series units and no G400's before mine. Didn't go over the stove much at all other than me checking to be sure everything seemed ok when I picked it up but I did tell them ahead of time that I would be installing the unit myself.

Slim have you sold any of the G400's yet and are they different from the 100 and 200's?         

[slimjim]

Yes i have schoppy, you obviously have the 2015 model and a 2014 manual, the clean out is on the back now instead of the top, HondaRacer has my 2015 show boiler that I ran at my shows and it never got cleaned up there, it was a 200 but built the same way.

[mlappin]

Open your rear access door and look near the top, the panel that has the 1/2hp draft inducer motor will have 5 tabs around the outside with a 3/8” nut on each one, two on top, one on either side and one on the bottom. Turn the power off at the main control panel, don’t turn the wall switch off at the back or you will shut your pumps off as well,  then unplug the draft inducer cord from the top of the electrical box that has your switch and receptacles in it. Loosen the bottom and side ones enough to rotate the locking tab out of the way, if you have a helper available have them loosen the top two while you support the plate and motor, I place one hand under the cooling shroud on the motor, once the top two are loose rotate the tabs and lift the whole assembly out, you may either want to wait till it’s ready to start another cycle and then turn the power off at the control panel or wear a pair of leather or welding gloves as the assembly can be quite warm.

Reverse this procedure to reinstall the draft inducer and cover assembly, you don’t need to over tighten the 3/8” nuts on the hold down tabs, just snug enough to get a good seal. It has two tabs the cover sits on so you can place the cover on the tabs then rotate the top in.

Clear as mud?


I really wouldn’t think it would need checked weekly as long as everything is good and dry in the reaction chamber.

The weather keeps flip flopping here, almost t shirt weather again here where a few days ago it was thermals weather with a bitter wind with gusts up to 60mph.

I’m heating the house, the DHW and the shop and have gone thru a quarter of a cord of ash in a week so not really worth letting it go out wit the what little wood it’s using, besides the wife has already become used to her endless hot showers.

EDIT:: Not sure why I worded that the way I did and I apologize if it caused confusion, but at least on the way the exhaust vent on the removable plate fits into the stack the bottom needs pulled out first to remove and inserted first to reinstall.

[schoppy]

Excellent description on the process mlappin. That is exactly how I pictured it but with recent shoulder surgery I will definitely be having help to do it.

I have been getting a little tary moisture dripping from the front and a few streaks running down the back from the venter panel. I will be taking my first water sample tomorrow and sending it in. I figured I would check the venter area and the chimney at the same time.

I believe my 15 year old daughter would live in the shower if we let her and the endless hot water means hot showers for mom and I when we take our showers after her. Slims recommendation on using the mono flow tees for my loads is working great so far and I am sure will be just fine once cold weather gets here. Supposed to have highs in the low 30's next weekend for the opening of deer season which should add some load.

[slimjim]

That should all clear up now that you are up to temp, if not then try adjusting the doors and perhaps tighten the dogs a bit on the rear access panel to seal it a bit better.

[schoppy]

Thanks Slim, I will check those out. I am also loading it less for the warmer weather. Do you think the 20 degree differential is for longer burn times trying to prevent short cycling and cleaner hotter burns? I know my P&M was about 7 degree differential but I would believe the gasser has a quicker recovery also.

[slimjim]

Yes, it does promote a hotter / cleaner  burn.

[hondaracer2oo4]

I haven't pulled th cover off th control panel yet to try and play with Siemens control to see what I can change and what I can't. I would like to bump the bottom up to maybe 165 for a bottom and maybe the top to 185? I have a hydro air system in the house so the owb water goes through a flat plate to get into the pressurized side and then flows to the hydroair coil on te pressurized side. Previously with my old system the owb would run right through the coil so I would get the 170-180 water directly. Now that it has to go through the plate and then te coil I get 2-3 degrees below what the actual owb is plus I run down to 160 so my heat vents in the house are consistently getting less temp than before. I run about 125-135 at the registers compared to 130-145 before. Not a huge deal but since I  am not getting the same btus my hydro air box runs a little more than before. I will be interested to see how much more when the temps approach zero degrees

[slimjim]

in order to raise the high set point temp, i'll need to stop by but the low set point can be brought up by the customer.

[hondaracer2oo4]

I will leave it the way it is for now and maybe have you change it at some point. Thanks for the info!

[schoppy]

I thought about raising my low point cut in above 160 but if you have ever heated with Geothermal or even the highest efficiency gas heating equipment you wouldn't even consider it. Geo puts out 105 to 110 degree heat when running wide open and a high efficiency gas furnace starts the blower at about 95 degrees but does warm up eventually. Even my DHW 10 plate exchanger gives me all the hot water I need at 160 but it is my first load. For cleaner hotter burns I will leave it as is.

I sent Wally (at the factory) a picture of the broken choc bar (that's what they call the insulation piece across the front) and the cracked refractory block. I called my dealer and they the factory and the choc bar is on the way. Wally advised to keep monitoring the refractory block so I checked again tonight and now the rear refractory block is cracked also. I sure hope these don't break apart and leave me without heat in the coldest part of the winter.

Slim I know you said no problem with the broken choc bar but I am not sure if the refractory blocks themselves come apart?   

[mlappin]

I haven't pulled th cover off th control panel yet to try and play with Siemens control to see what I can change and what I can't. I would like to bump the bottom up to maybe 165 for a bottom and maybe the top to 185? I have a hydro air system in the house so the owb water goes through a flat plate to get into the pressurized side and then flows to the hydroair coil on te pressurized side. Previously with my old system the owb would run right through the coil so I would get the 170-180 water directly. Now that it has to go through the plate and then te coil I get 2-3 degrees below what the actual owb is plus I run down to 160 so my heat vents in the house are consistently getting less temp than before. I run about 125-135 at the registers compared to 130-145 before. Not a huge deal but since I  am not getting the same btus my hydro air box runs a little more than before. I will be interested to see how much more when the temps approach zero degrees

I played with mine out of curiosity and decided to leave well enough alone, if you were to change it I believe from what I seen it doesn’t actually list the temps far as 160 cut in, but rather lists the reading the probe puts out at 160, so you’d need the chart thats used to test the probe to reset your temps. Really cute controller though, I have some VFD’s here at the farm with built in PID controllers, have 900 and some odd lines a person can play with, definitely need the manual, for example maximum hertz is listed as P103 and a number, don’t have the manual and your boned.

[mlappin]

I thought about raising my low point cut in above 160 but if you have ever heated with Geothermal or even the highest efficiency gas heating equipment you wouldn't even consider it. Geo puts out 105 to 110 degree heat when running wide open and a high efficiency gas furnace starts the blower at about 95 degrees but does warm up eventually. Even my DHW 10 plate exchanger gives me all the hot water I need at 160 but it is my first load. For cleaner hotter burns I will leave it as is.

I sent Wally (at the factory) a picture of the broken choc bar (that's what they call the insulation piece across the front) and the cracked refractory block. I called my dealer and they the factory and the choc bar is on the way. Wally advised to keep monitoring the refractory block so I checked again tonight and now the rear refractory block is cracked also. I sure hope these don't break apart and leave me without heat in the coldest part of the winter.

Slim I know you said no problem with the broken choc bar but I am not sure if the refractory blocks themselves come apart?

I believe as long as the refractory doesn’t start to crumble a crack won’t effect performance. I imagine given the shape of the refractories a lot of stress is created as they expand or contract as they heat or cool.

[slimjim]

schoppy, could you send me those pictures as well or post them here so we can all see it, so far i haven't seen any cracks.

[hondaracer2oo4]

I was also wondering about raising the low temp shut down to 150 or so. It seems like when it gets down to 150 and below that I have little to no coals left for a restart which is what i figure that feature is for. At 120 I would certainly have nothing left as far as coals.