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Author Topic: Almost  (Read 64587 times)

hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Almost
« Reply #75 on: November 10, 2017, 03:04:15 PM »

So the problem is that your house wifi doesn't reach the controlbywebrelay signal correct? Could you place a wifi signal booster with the control by web or don't they have some sort of wifi module that can plug into your 120 volt house receptacle and distribute wifi that way?
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Almost
« Reply #76 on: November 10, 2017, 03:05:33 PM »

Was both the house and shop calling for heat at those times? Yes can you do a history with the numbers so you can see when the shop turns on and off.
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coolidge

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Re: Almost
« Reply #77 on: November 10, 2017, 05:02:03 PM »

Both those picture it was running wide open and did so for another hour, then shut down for an hour and water temp dropped to 160 in that hour.  This is the latest with no load at either place.
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Western Maine

hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Almost
« Reply #78 on: November 10, 2017, 05:20:43 PM »

Your water temp dropped in the boiler from 180-160 in one hour with nothing calling? My g200 will go for 6 plus hours with no call for heat fro, the house.
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coolidge

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Re: Almost
« Reply #79 on: November 10, 2017, 05:34:08 PM »

I used up two full boxes since 7 am today, I got 9 days out of a half cord. At this rate I am switching to oil soon, very soon.

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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Almost
« Reply #80 on: November 10, 2017, 06:13:56 PM »

What's the deal with your shop loop? Can you shut it down the floor so the water just makes a loop back to the boiler?
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coolidge

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Re: Almost
« Reply #81 on: November 10, 2017, 06:24:22 PM »

Yes, it happened to be shut down for a few days last week, batteries died in stat. I was really excited I was only using 5 to 6 splits for overnight just for house, then I went in shop, was cold. I am going to shut it of again tomorrow and see what happens again.
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coolidge

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Re: Almost
« Reply #82 on: November 10, 2017, 06:25:01 PM »

Maybe the 200 is just to small.
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mlappin

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Re: Almost
« Reply #83 on: November 10, 2017, 06:45:47 PM »

With no call for heat, why the 6 degree drop in the house loop?

i could be wrong here, but the efficiency ratings are pretty much the same across all models, if you were stuffing it clear full every 8 hours then yes, it’s too small, or if your stuffing it clear full and it can’t keep up, then it’s too small.

I’m just using Miljoco mechanical gauges on the back of mine, used a T and they are directly in the water flow, no thermowells, within whatever accuracy they claim to me with no calls for heat at most there is a degree difference between return and supply. They are reasonably accurate though as the ones on the supply will read almost identical. There a lot better than the freakin Honeywells I have in the basement, according to them I’m so adept at designing  a system my water leaves the house hotter than it came in….

6 degrees may not seem like much, but that’s 6 degrees every minute of every hour of every day, it adds up to a LOT of BTU’s depending on your flow.

Mot likely your using a plate in the house, bypass that, then make sure whatever you have for heat in the house, radiant, forced air, baseboards or whatever is as off as it can be then see if you still have 6 degrees.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2017, 06:51:40 PM by mlappin »
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mlappin

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Re: Almost
« Reply #84 on: November 10, 2017, 06:52:49 PM »

Then again I may be full of crap, I looked at your picture again, your shop supply is supposedly 2.6 degrees warmer than your house supply.
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Stihl 023
Stihl 362
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Homemade skid steer mounted splitter, 30" throat, 5" cylinder
Wood-Eze model 8100 firewood processor

HeatmasterSS dealer for Northern Indiana

coolidge

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Re: Almost
« Reply #85 on: November 10, 2017, 07:00:27 PM »

I have no plates at either house or garage, straight from boiler
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hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Almost
« Reply #86 on: November 10, 2017, 07:27:16 PM »

Btus are btus. They go somewhere. So you are either using them in the garage because of heat loss(I doubt that this time of year) or losing them to the ground from the pipes or radiant floor. So you use a few splits to heat only the house. Now the radiant floor went cold, we all know it takes a few days of heavy btu input to get it up to temp and then it should sip on the btus. I assume your floor has come up to temp st this point and should be using very little btus at this point. I think without you being able to write a program to record the historical temps from the controlbyweb to figure out how often the floor takes an input for heat then you are going to have to pump water to the shop but bypass the fradisnt floor so it just heads back to the boiler. Run it like that for a couple days to confirm whether or not it is your underground pipes or your floor eating the btus.
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coolidge

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Re: Almost
« Reply #87 on: November 10, 2017, 07:43:52 PM »

My SIL is going to come down tomorrow and look over the Controlyweb thingy to see if she can get it to email me whatever it does send.
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Western Maine

hondaracer2oo4

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Re: Almost
« Reply #88 on: November 10, 2017, 08:50:21 PM »

I quickly looked st the owners manual. It looks like you can set it up to report whatever you want but you have to write the code. It tells you how to write the code but I wonder if you can call controlbyweb and ask them for a prewritten one for you.
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coolidge

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Re: Almost
« Reply #89 on: November 11, 2017, 06:13:42 AM »

i did a little experiment last night and put the shop T stat on the floor, it was about 4 feet from the floor. seemed to work good, had for the most part a half a box of wood left this morning.
Maybe a slab sensor would have been better.
First one is after i moved T stat too floor.
Other are this morning.
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Western Maine
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