MW welcome aboard, As far as comparison of products, you are more than welcome to ask about any brand and I'm sure there will be lots of comments, it's up to you to make your own choice, as far as comparison between P+M products, what else would you like to know, I think 15% would be a fair # and the learning curve of the gassers is that they burn in a totally different way, let me see if I can explain the way it works. In a typical conventional stove air is fed into the burn chamber via a controlled air inlet rather natural draft or blower, the air is injected in different brands to different areas of the fire, I personally think under fire and over fire at the same time works best in the conventionals, some go a step further with firebrick and ceramics to burn what they can of the smoke as it is wasted fuel and the Ultimizer takes it 2 steps further with the 3 pass heat exchanger before the exhaust is released and the fact that it is a sectional boiler, ( it can be split in half by removing the bolts that hold the water tank to the dry base), these are some of the reasons for the great reviews on the Ultimizer.
Next I'll try to explain the Optimzer, First you have to understand that the goal of a gasser is to create smoke in the initial firebox, ( this is fuel to be burned later in the reaction chamber) air is pumped into the primary burn chamber on a call for heat to aid in the burn that creates the fuel, no call for heat and blower shuts off and an actuator closes the air off so no air movement happens in the stove, at this point the heat that is stored in the ceramics cooks the wood to a charcoal, this is why you hear folks say don't overload the stove, only put in what you need to, (learning curve) if to much charcoal is made it will plug up the nozzle to the reaction chamber, the 250 thrives on 2-3 inches of ash and charcoal, others will chime in on their stoves I can only speak for P+M comfortably, now on a call for heat air is pumped intop the primary chamber and forces the mixture of smoke and air down through what we refer to as a nozzle, the extreme temp of the ceramics, ai and fuel come together and ignite into a blue flame that burns almost all of the particulate matter out of the gas creating a flame that can reach well over 2000 degrees, a cooking hot conventional fire might go 12-1400 degrees, when you burn that hot there is no creosote left in the exhaust, therefor now we can put a true tripple pass fire tube heat exchanger on the unit to harness that heat, exhaust temps on the 250 are measured at the base of the chimney at what we call the breach of the boiler and when the tubes are clean should run around 260 degrees and the boiler should have the tubes brushed out before reaching 320 degreesF, OK my typing finger is starting to bleed, if you have any more question I'll be happy to try and answer them.